While NeNe Leakes is long gone from Bravo’s hit money grab, “The Real Housewives of Atlanta,” two infamous words from the evolved Southern peach resound as the hair industry –inclusive of maintenance products and hair pieces– is expected to gross nearly $100 billion by year’s end, as cited by a recent report. Initially used to taunt her frenemy, Kim Zolciak-Biermann, “Bye, wig!” now vibrates in the form of wig blindness, crowned by the “Hard wig, Soft life” aspired lifestyle parodied on TikTok, in hopes of a life of luxury. 

“There are levels to wig blindness, and it can go both ways,” says wig expert and celebrity hairstylist Dionna Owens. “You cannot know it's a wig, and you can be oblivious to the architecture and the details behind what you're wearing.”

Owens, whose clients include Kelly Rowland and Serena Williams, says wig curation is all about density and texture, backed by science. She also believes knowledge is the foundation of any stylist-client relationship.

“People don't understand that custom and customizing are different,” explains Owens. “It’s a fitting when you get the wig to fit your head, the nape of the neck, your ear tabs, and your temples. After the fitting, you can customize which can sometimes cost more than the wig itself.”

When the correct actions are taken, the results can be tenfold, promoting sustainability.

Contrary to belief, Owens says, “You can keep a wig forever. It’s all about restructuring the piece according to someone’s lifestyle.”

However, when clients receive unwanted criticism, which can sometimes pass as compliments, the stylist returns to the drawing board. 

“Of course, we know it's a wig, but no one should ever say that.” 

Bet.com had a wide-ranging discussion with Owens on wig-wearing intricacies while she stepped into the deep end and blasted a popular tool that’s snatching edges with no remorse. 

Bet.com: In a world of wigs from long units to short ones, sleek dos, those that appear natural, and everything in between, what’s your definition of wig blindness?

Dionna Owens: It's the idea of showing the lace or wig with no regard and being oblivious or purposely not caring. It doesn't simply involve how it looks on the model online. It's what the unit says about you when you wear it. 

Bet.com: When selecting a new unit, what should wig wearers consider?

Dionna Owens: First, people have to understand their lifestyle. It's best to figure that out before. Some people are very active, some are moms, some work out a lot, some go to the office, and some have nightlife jobs. You have to be able to understand yourself to determine what wig will look best for you.

Bet.com: Men, too, are wearing wig pieces. Is the same information applicable to them?

Dionna Owens: What's important is head measurement. It's more than just a measuring tape around the circumference. Some people are getting pieces not customized for them because they're unaware of the different steps of measuring your head. Also, pay close attention to density. If you want to go undetected, you must ensure those things are asked about.

Bet.com: Lace wigs have become a game changer in the beauty industry. In terms of melting lace, tinting lace, and bleaching knots, what is the correct way to treat these areas for a flawless application?

Dionna Owens: If you see a wig and the knots look like ants, no level of bleaching or [color] lifting will make that look go away. The correct way is to follow color theory. If the knots haven't reached a yellow tone, it's always best to reapply the solution. Lace melting can take an average look and change the entire look of the unit.

Bet.com: Some wigs can serve as a protective style. Before installation, how should the wearer protect their natural hair?

Dionna Owens: It's important [to] wear your natural hairline out because our temples are the weakest part of our hair. If you can put it slightly behind the hairline, you will thank yourself years and years later.

I recommend people wear braids that go downward versus going straight back because there's not as much tension on the front of your head. You [will] also feel more secure. Doing your regular shampoos and moisturizing your scalp is also important.

Bet.com: In terms of longevity, how should the wig be installed? Should it be sewn or glued, or is there a better method?

Dionna Owens: For on stage, we glue and sew. It’s necessary to glue because actors are moving around and the glue will make it flat. So when the fans are on them, they’re not having a situation where the hair lifts, especially by their ears. We don't glue them down for theater because the lace is so far down that the audience can't see that. Anytime you have lace still attached to your unit, it will fit snugly because it's built around the actual circumference of your head. When working on set, we often bobby-pin the units down by bending the bobby pins in a certain way and tucking them. 

Bet.com: Unless it’s a spoof, it’s safe to say no wig should be arched at the top of someone’s head, reaching for the heavens. What steps should be taken to ensure units are sitting flat, flat? 

Dionna Owens: The way to ensure your wig lays flat is to know the points of the back of your head, which are from ear to ear. Also, the braiding pattern is important. It has everything to do with the science behind the math. Wigs involve math and geometry 100%.

Bet.com: Speaking of laying wigs flat, wearers and stylists use elastic bands to achieve a seamless install that resembles a natural scalp. Should users exercise caution when applying bands?

Dionna Owens: Elastic bands are great for ripping your edges out. It’s like threading your eyebrows. The elastic is going to weave out your hair. Hair bands tend to thin out the hairline because the elastic is stretched.

Medical-grade bandage tape is the only option because it only sticks to itself—it won't stick to hair or skin.  

Bet.com: When purchasing a new wig, is the saying “You get what you pay for” true, or can any wig, despite price, have the potential to look wiggish if not styled or applied correctly?

Dionna Owens: If you can take a blueprint of your client’s head and transfer it to your head mold or canvas head, you've started light years ahead of the next person. Your $300 wig has now changed to a $1,500 in seconds. It could also cost $10,000 and still look like a wig. 

Bet.com: Wigs are not one size fits all. What should the wig wearer and stylist consider when customizing a wig?

Dionna Owens: Customizing is never done until you put it on a client. You can't breathe life into it until it's on someone's head. You can tweeze all you want. You can thin all the hair out all you want. You can even do the best style, but if the cut isn’t hitting at the level like the client wants, then you still have work to do. 

Bet.com: What Black celebrity deserves a gold star for wearing wigs flawlessly and avoiding blindness that some unknowingly fall into?

Dionna Owens: Beyoncé Giselle Knowles-Carter. What makes her units different is how her lace is strategically placed. The way that she wears her wigs, you don't know what’s happening. Her lace lays in a way that tricks your eye. You're not going to see any knots on this woman's wig because they are intertwined differently.